tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-210851902024-03-14T03:34:13.491+13:00d3vo: lifeblogd3vohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10901517844828466221noreply@blogger.comBlogger52125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-21085190.post-72383564346352893542024-02-02T22:45:00.003+13:002024-02-02T22:45:45.108+13:003d Printer PID tuning<p>In first work problems, my 3d printer needs tuning after some surface changes in my print bed. It is acting drunk right now when it tries to keep a steady temperature:</p><p><br /></p><div style="background-color: #1f1f1f; color: #cccccc; font-family: Consolas, 'Courier New', monospace; font-size: 14px; font-weight: normal; line-height: 19px; white-space: pre;"><div><span style="color: #cccccc;">Heater</span></div><br /><div><span style="color: #cccccc;">Recv: PID Autotune finished! Put the last Kp, Ki and Kd constants from below into Configuration.h</span></div><div><span style="color: #cccccc;">Recv: #define DEFAULT_Kp 18.74</span></div><div><span style="color: #cccccc;">Recv: #define DEFAULT_Ki 1.53</span></div><div><span style="color: #cccccc;">Recv: #define DEFAULT_Kd 57.31</span></div><div><span style="color: #cccccc;">Recv: ok</span></div><br /><div><span style="color: #cccccc;">Bed</span></div><br /><div><span style="color: #cccccc;">Recv: PID Autotune finished! Put the last Kp, Ki and Kd constants from below into Configuration.h</span></div><div><span style="color: #cccccc;">Recv: #define DEFAULT_bedKp 43.15</span></div><div><span style="color: #cccccc;">Recv: #define DEFAULT_bedKi 2.18</span></div><div><span style="color: #cccccc;">Recv: #define DEFAULT_bedKd 570.37</span></div><br /></div><div style="background-color: #1f1f1f; color: #cccccc; font-family: Consolas, 'Courier New', monospace; font-size: 14px; font-weight: normal; line-height: 19px; white-space: pre;"><br /></div><p></p>d3vohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10901517844828466221noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-21085190.post-82018083107055408242023-12-29T19:58:00.005+13:002023-12-29T19:58:34.931+13:00Woody Prusa 3d Printer Repair Time<p>I've got some sort of problem in my 3d printer with the bed leveling probe, which is a proximity probe the printer uses to figure out how hight the print head is from the print bed.</p><p>It is probably a wiring problem; wiring is by far my weakest skill in playing with 3d printers. I probably have some dodgy tiny wiring problem in a solder joint or a splitter cable. I figure after 2 years by <br /></p><p>When I first built the printer I had some trouble with probing. I thought it was a problem with the probe or my setup but it was the particular bed surface.</p><p>Anyway I have a spare probe and also found a supplier of a splitter cable I need, so one of those things is likely to fix my problem. I'll start with the splitter cable change, from my dodgy part which is a three way solder of three cables to a professionally assembled one without any soldered wires.</p><p>A guide about the splitting and which wire goes which way is here, along with some Marlin config things. <br /></p><p>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AjB0ZucPf9s&t=177s</p><p>Cloned Prusa PINDA 2 probe.</p><p><br /></p>d3vohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10901517844828466221noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-21085190.post-25058484090090289372023-09-06T00:19:00.000+12:002023-09-06T00:19:28.827+12:00Minor Print List<p> I fixed a problem with my 3d printer, a bad wire to a heat sensor.</p><p>The first print list item is a weird little tool for a mountain bike wheel that seats an end cap.</p><p>https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/tool/dt-swiss-end-cap-tool-15mm-axel</p><p>Second item is a replacement part cooling duct thing. This one seems fine:</p><p>https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2213182 <br /></p>d3vohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10901517844828466221noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-21085190.post-74324055517186154212023-05-02T22:45:00.007+12:002023-05-02T22:45:59.133+12:00Old Bike Reference<p>I have a new bike. My partner hasn't upgraded, so she has the same model at the old size.</p><p>Some excessive parts transfer will happen. A phrase for this sort of upgrading is "parts cannon". A least 5 parts should change, maybe 7.<br /></p><p>Reference for this old bike, in its original state <a href="https://www.vitalmtb.com/product/guide/Bikes,3/Giant/Trance-2,18947">can be found here.</a></p><p>A picture for my memories. I liked the colour scheme a lot!!<br /></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJBz9HpImT5CSeVdtvT-G_RBzP8FpDVsQXL75pXSi9GagswE_c0r6_oajCsGza2WwioMbn7NXqivhxhXwG7jk3PUaZo3ksLhl7MSyz-Fe1KGvhzrcRu0IPlc6UrPJKuljJVLZcBJ_BTqHG10s6OaSp0VxpuzlBhJRR-u8I2JvtP29lSA142Ic/s1667/trance-2_black.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1000" data-original-width="1667" height="381" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJBz9HpImT5CSeVdtvT-G_RBzP8FpDVsQXL75pXSi9GagswE_c0r6_oajCsGza2WwioMbn7NXqivhxhXwG7jk3PUaZo3ksLhl7MSyz-Fe1KGvhzrcRu0IPlc6UrPJKuljJVLZcBJ_BTqHG10s6OaSp0VxpuzlBhJRR-u8I2JvtP29lSA142Ic/w635-h381/trance-2_black.jpg" width="635" /></a></div><br /> <br /><p></p>d3vohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10901517844828466221noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-21085190.post-12932973596292170592023-03-03T00:05:00.003+13:002023-03-03T00:05:56.397+13:00Windows 11 Debloat<p>Came across this interesting video about a tool for debloating & explaining windows 11:</p><p></p><p> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8ReoMuCUdKE</p><p>Link to <a href="https://github.com/builtbybel/ThisIsWin11">tool is here.</a> <br /></p><p> <br /></p><p> </p><p> <br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p>d3vohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10901517844828466221noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-21085190.post-71284541944007693042023-02-02T20:27:00.005+13:002023-03-31T22:41:20.727+13:00Better Rim Brakes<p> I've wanted better rim brakes on my "city bike", the bicycle I mostly ride around Melbourne.</p><p>The 35 and 38mm wide tyres I'm using are handy for cobbled laneways, tram tracks, pot holes and drainage grills.</p><p>The brakes I have fit fine and work, but they don't feel very powerful.</p><p>Here is a great post about brakes for big tyres, with handy pictures:</p><p><a href="https://blackmtncycles.com/clearance-pt-ii-road-frames/">clearance pt ii road frames</a><br /></p><p>Another handy post, no pictures but it describes various size options.</p><p><a href="https://www.bicycling.com/bikes-gear/a20008036/an-ode-to-long-reach-brakes/">an ode to long reach brakes</a><br /></p><p>For my reference my blue bike has 62mm size between brake pivot bolt and the mid rim. This puts me just beyond the Shimano products, but still in the TekTro product range :)<br /></p>d3vohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10901517844828466221noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-21085190.post-1664219062732321532023-01-03T23:32:00.000+13:002023-01-03T23:32:13.823+13:00Flat White Memory<p> For prosperity I'm noting down an old memory to pin down Flat Whites in Wellington.</p><p>In a no longer extant underground cafe, I got sort of made fun of in the 1990s poor customer service manner that existed in Wellington at the time. <br /></p><p>I was with friends for what was probably my 20th birthday, certain some birthday, and the counter staff made fun of my party for wanting a both a flat white and a latte, affirming incorrectly that they where the same thing.</p><p>That made it 1996, I think, which had Flat White's as an orderable drink at cafes across Wellington. <br /></p><p> <br /></p>d3vohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10901517844828466221noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-21085190.post-66439068065656311022022-11-24T00:55:00.000+13:002022-11-24T00:55:01.324+13:00V6 Hotend Setup<p> I'm redoing my extruder to replace a part I broke a year ago during first assembly; I used a screw that was too long a broke a thing.</p><p>Here is the video to toms hardware video about assembling a V6 hot end or clone.</p><p>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xr02pG58gaU<br /></p>d3vohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10901517844828466221noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-21085190.post-30480416995923631082022-10-12T23:54:00.002+13:002022-10-13T00:02:08.998+13:00road bike upgrades<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-hWIRvMaem6Q/Y0ac4cCqPSI/AAAAAAAAS0Q/pyTZueko2KogJYuKIRiNf_fx2knW4Qe1ACNcBGAsYHQ/s1600/1665572062838103-0.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;">
<img border="0" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-hWIRvMaem6Q/Y0ac4cCqPSI/AAAAAAAAS0Q/pyTZueko2KogJYuKIRiNf_fx2knW4Qe1ACNcBGAsYHQ/s1600/1665572062838103-0.png" width="400" />
</a>
</div><div><br /></div><div>So a bicycle mechanic friend sold me this great frame, 1990s group set and slightly worn wheels, for a song. Apollo was/ is an Australian bicycle brand. Frame made in Taiwan, which is literally the best place for a bicycle frame to be made, both in 1990s and still now.<br /></div><div> </div><div>Cables, housing, bar tape and assembly are mine, all with some tyre switching. Bar type isn't glued on, it sort of friction fits by wrapping onto itself and the you tape only one end. A sort of fabric magic trick.<br /></div><div> <br /></div><div>I rode the 50km Round the Bay event. Fun, a bit stop start, and got rained on. Got some fancy road closures include two lanes each way of the large West Gate bridge, which is about 3km long. <br /></div><div><br /></div><div>At the last minute I discovered that red stripe tyres exist, so maybe we use them in the future; </div><h1 class="productName" style="box-sizing: inherit; color: black; font-family: Helvetica, Arial, "sans-serif"; font-size: 20px; letter-spacing: normal; margin: 0px 0px 5px; padding: 0px;">Vittoria Rubino Pro IV Road Tyre</h1><div><br /></div><div>Shimano RX 100 group set <a href="https://velobase.com/ViewComponent.aspx?ID=e1ff9e49-e643-4aae-972c-fda51c807e9b">info is here.</a> Dealer manual scans also around to see how to service.<br /></div><div> <br /></div><div>Shimano still sell spares for this approximately 30 year old design; part numbers of my brakes were dutifully listed on the back of the pack at a local bike store! I like!<br /></div><div><br /></div>d3vohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10901517844828466221noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-21085190.post-68146724186447432772022-08-07T20:51:00.001+12:002022-08-07T20:51:40.518+12:00Ubers' Slow DeathHere's is a great article about Ubers slow and inevitable death:<div><br></div><div>https://pluralistic.net/2022/08/05/a-lousy-taxi/#a-giant-asterisk<br></div><div><br></div><div>Uber doesn't have an innovation to go with it's share price and will eventually be priced like a taxi company instead of a tech company.</div><div><br></div><div>I'm picking Uber to pop it's share price first, then shortly after Instagram will do a myspace, then years later Facebook will ruin itself.</div><div><br></div><div><br></div>d3vohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10901517844828466221noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-21085190.post-52638719262116708222022-07-30T23:45:00.002+12:002022-07-30T23:45:23.730+12:00Recently Finished Things<p>I've finished several unrelated things in the last 6 weeks which doesn't happen often so I think I should write them down!</p><p><b>God of War 4 game on PC</b>; This is a great game. It is extremely well produced, directed, written and motion captured. The game is very cinematic. I enjoyed it a lot.</p><p><b>Weaponised novel by Neal Asher</b>; This was a good read with a story with many enjoyable twists. Unlike most of Ashers writing, I didn't just hoover this book up at the fastest possible rate. I sort of wanted to enjoy it smaller bit sized chunks. I think that says good things about Asher's dynamicism as an author.</p><p><b>Knife Sharpener Tool v2.1</b>; I've been slowly 3d printing this knife sharpener. I couldn't get one of the non-printed parts in quite the right size, so I had to learn how to modify an existing part from another author. Fun project. <a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1274297">Project is here on thingiverse.</a><br /></p><p><b>Playable Ur; </b>I'm still hacking <a href="https://damon140.github.io/ur/">this on web page Royal Game of Ur</a> implementation in KotlinJS. I need some clues about colour, some sound adjustments and also a colour theme. It has a very simple computer player, my first coded computer player that I can recall.<br /></p><p><br /></p>d3vohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10901517844828466221noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-21085190.post-84416396209674989042022-07-04T20:56:00.004+12:002023-04-22T01:58:31.525+12:00Thougts on Printing a Keyboard<p> I'm having semi irrational thoughts about printing a keyboard.</p><p>Controller: this category got a lot easier recently it appears with the <a href="https://www.raspberrypi.com/products/raspberry-pi-pico/">cheap and well support Raspberry Pi Pico</a>. $6 AUD and it has like 40 general purpose IO pins so supports many rows & columns etc without getting tricksy.</p><p> A slightly better Raspberry Pi clone made in Europe for similar money is the Groundstudio Marble Pico which has more ram, some other technical features but most usefully it has USB C! A trouble to get it in Australia at the moment. </p><p>This video covers it and also mentions other USB C clones: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ma40w3_8dtg<br /></p><p>Software: <a href="https://github.com/dairequinlan/mechware">this software called Mechware</a> can be configured and compiled for a Raspberry Pi Pico, and is written in C.<br /></p><p>Switches can cost a fortune but there are <a href="https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003607076316.html?_randl_currency=AUD&_randl_shipto=AU&src=google&aff_fcid=043b17aeb6714c9c8b2e64ffd49df646-1653136583912-03377-UneMJZVf&aff_fsk=UneMJZVf&aff_platform=aaf&sk=UneMJZVf&aff_trace_key=043b17aeb6714c9c8b2e64ffd49df646-1653136583912-03377-UneMJZVf&terminal_id=467720380ce44d2cb15f9822d7daf6b9&afSmartRedirect=y">cheap low profile switches on aliexpress</a> that got an <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kz_w2YV_aJ8">ok review in this youtube video</a>.<br /></p><p>I would follow various diode guides about how to solder. <br /></p><p>There is <a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2783650">a key cap model generator here on thingiverse</a>, although I'm not sure if it will do what I want for low height keys for non-standard switches. I'm guessing I'd just use openscad.</p><p><br /></p><p> <br /></p>d3vohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10901517844828466221noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-21085190.post-85224090899138035292022-07-01T23:24:00.005+12:002022-07-01T23:24:57.470+12:003d Printer Build Plate Sizes<p>There is a 3d printer build surface manufacturer that has a page which shows all the different build plate size for all contemporary 3d printers: <a href="https://whambamsystems.com/flexible-build-system">build plate size</a></p><p> If you want to build some printer, you can use this as a cheat code on aliexpress to find a build plate/ heated bed in the right size 😀 <br /></p>d3vohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10901517844828466221noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-21085190.post-54871441503404602852022-05-16T00:33:00.005+12:002022-06-17T20:35:56.221+12:00Interesting Alternate 3d Printers<p> </p><p> </p><p>Large printer with weird rails</p><p><a href="https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCummTDBPp9wecEyIerKeRFQ">https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCummTDBPp9wecEyIerKeRFQ</a><br /></p><p><br /></p><p>Circular Polar 3d printer<br /></p><p><a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jKhPWo6QZwA">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jKhPWo6QZwA</a> <br /></p><p> </p><p>Delta, is a remake of an old Rep Rap design</p><p><a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_Ry1FGsvIMA">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_Ry1FGsvIMA</a></p><p> </p><p>Construction Crane style printer, labeld Inverted polar</p><p><a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MYaYVmX7mUY">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MYaYVmX7mUY</a></p><p> </p><p>Fancy Rotary Delta, this thing is very impressive<br /></p><p><a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Sh7eLu4tUMA">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Sh7eLu4tUMA</a> <br /></p><p> </p><p>Archie A home made Rotary Delta, a big series of these vids:</p><p><a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IG3Yfhys-N0">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IG3Yfhys-N0</a></p><p><a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4591379">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4591379</a><br /></p><p><br /></p><p> <br /></p><p> <br /></p>d3vohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10901517844828466221noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-21085190.post-55107851347764653072022-03-26T20:40:00.001+13:002022-03-26T20:40:25.671+13:00Russian Tea Pot<p>Coinciding with the Russian invasion of Ukraine, a Russian web server started reporting that it was HTTP status 418, which means that it is saying "<strong><code>I'm a teapot".</code></strong></p><p><strong><code> </code></strong></p><p><strong><code></code></strong></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><strong><code><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdLLHI5QlBvpWsgibUCaEyAdZWkwgSljTfnM5zZuGY5IWM0OGVs6rnFb8-uGoHBtaVLVOU_9C87qQ7l62vnVtoesO9kFx26c6Y3Ej2IF9C6RgERfhB-UA72ALb1VTjnWhbI452ueXkhufMOkInz7u2fZk8SNlvzcCsuX9ktDrWHhXXH2_blH8/s1108/russian-teapot.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="607" data-original-width="1108" height="175" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdLLHI5QlBvpWsgibUCaEyAdZWkwgSljTfnM5zZuGY5IWM0OGVs6rnFb8-uGoHBtaVLVOU_9C87qQ7l62vnVtoesO9kFx26c6Y3Ej2IF9C6RgERfhB-UA72ALb1VTjnWhbI452ueXkhufMOkInz7u2fZk8SNlvzcCsuX9ktDrWHhXXH2_blH8/s320/russian-teapot.png" width="320" /></a></code></strong></div><strong><code><br /> </code></strong> <p></p>d3vohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10901517844828466221noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-21085190.post-90900205223364426832022-02-09T23:10:00.002+13:002022-02-09T23:27:11.762+13:00New Found Shroud Challenges
<p>
So the 3d printer I have constructed has a minor, correctable design flaw. The part cooling fan cools the just laid plastic so that it sticks to the existing printed part.
</p>
<p>
In my Prusa Mk2 the part cooling fan only pushing air from the front to the back, a single direction. This means there is a wind shadow behind the extruder nozzle. 3 out of 4 ain't bad, but one direction of printing prints less well.
</p>
<p>
People years ahead of me have fixed this problem with improved fan shrouds that blow air from the left and right, avoiding any shadow and improving 1/4 of the print lines.
</p>
<p>
<a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3101353/comments ">This part is probably the one I want to print,</a> it has room for an insulating silicone sock that I have fitted. <br /></p>
<p>
<a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3105548/files ">This part probably doesn't fit,</a> but is smaller and probably prettier.<br /></p>
<p>
<a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2187113 ">This part doesn't solve the wind shadow problem</a> but it tilts the fan for improved power, an improvement that was taken into the design of the Prusa Mk3.</p><p>My problem is that I need to print this part in ABS plastic. My new printer can get hot enough to do this, that isn't a problem. This kind of plastic won't melt/ warp/ drool being next to the hot print
head. I can't use regular PLA or PETG here, they are easier to print
but they won't work for very long, the part would fail.</p><p>ABS (Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene) should be printed without a fan running but my problem is that my fan is connected to a permanently on fan port at the moment, due to my ignorance.<br /></p><p>I have one controllable fan port on my little motherboard, but I'm not sure how it is configured in the firmware. Could be my an extruder cooling fan, could be a ventilation fan, or maybe the one I want!! Time to test!!<br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p>
d3vohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10901517844828466221noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-21085190.post-13088108978623953842022-02-08T23:47:00.001+13:002022-02-08T23:47:06.748+13:00Flexbox FroggerSome day when I have to remember flexbox again, I'll have a go
<a src="https://flexboxfroggy.com/">at flexbox frogger</a>.d3vohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10901517844828466221noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-21085190.post-37880779578117170622022-02-02T12:58:00.003+13:002022-02-02T19:14:26.613+13:00Print List<p>I'm at home today after some skin surgery on Monday to remove a Basal Cell Carcinoma; a cliche skin problem in pale skinned European descendants due to sun damage in my distant past. <br /></p><p>This <a href="https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/home/m-o-paris-lamp-lefabshop">floor lying lampshade </a>seems fun to print.</p><p>This <a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4775540">sanding block looks kind of boring and pointless</a>, however consider that it is a digital model and so you can trivially scale the entire model up or down to make perfectly fitting sand blocks for any human. Small hand, big hands, child hands, print it to size and enjoy a well fitting tool. <br /></p><p>This <a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1068443">digital sundial that changes time every 10 minutes is cool</a>, but a bit of a nightmare to print, may take 24 hours :/<br /></p>d3vohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10901517844828466221noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-21085190.post-28806148501116164582022-01-28T01:00:00.006+13:002022-01-29T11:38:46.823+13:003d Print Z Height<p>I found out for my setup I can control the Z height in software.<br /></p><p>See set value with <span style="font-family: courier;"> <code>M503</code></span></p><p>Set new Z-Probe Offset using <span style="font-family: courier;"><code>M851 Z<newValue></code></span>, for example<span style="font-family: courier;"> <code>M851 Z-2.2</code></span></p><p>My printer seems to work better with <span style="font-family: courier;">M851 Z-0.47</span><br /></p><code></code><p><code> </code></p>d3vohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10901517844828466221noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-21085190.post-67449821480743674242022-01-23T14:56:00.002+13:002022-01-23T15:53:15.646+13:00Printer Printing its Own PartMy printer works enough to reprint one of its own parts. The door to the motherboard is a warped print from my Monoprice mini.<div><br /></div><div>The part printed perfectly on my new printer, which solves a door rubbing problem with the heated bed.</div><div><br /></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEiUhw97l_8XLzEU1k4mUdgcofSbxakfC1Tk6LbZD5F_CFeAweeP-7Q0S5ct8Gy-p3G8FyCtWg3OqqMqJNbcjqgXYeVDL5QNREHMaDkNRhvYuySYooOMiyWlrABfbyW7AO8osAth7EMzJ3ZszVlRq5HeGWCoLb8P4BiSNFfri06ZOFEsyRshotI" width="400" />
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<img border="0" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-dy3sBz_f8FE/YfoSRs6Q6BI/AAAAAAAASgA/Up1emzgCiQ0FdbKvFHIYvEKQQToDNrDswCNcBGAsYHQ/s1600/1643778624843147-0.png" width="400">
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<img border="0" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-4nRbkPOF1oY/Ydjpg6dTFlI/AAAAAAAASeA/eHy2eKa_tcwQavAwCVsKCKyxVYOqHrlnwCNcBGAsYHQ/s1600/1641605502663335-0.png" width="400">
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</div>d3vohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10901517844828466221noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-21085190.post-44057305491552702272021-10-28T22:16:00.002+13:002021-10-28T22:16:24.222+13:00<p>I'm up to needing a print <a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1977997">a pinda probe alignment tool.</a> </p><p>Two other problems remain. My extruder thermister isn't doesn't make a, maybe my wiring is dodgy or maybe the setting for the thermister type is wrong in my software setup.</p><p>Also my screen seems to be deady dead. Could be my first bad part!!</p><p> <br /></p>d3vohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10901517844828466221noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-21085190.post-88632839629356738152021-10-02T00:22:00.006+13:002021-10-02T15:14:27.572+13:00Links to Prusa Printer Parts<p>Here are some parts I found that I wanted to remember for potential future use.</p><p>Mk3 <a href="https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32882891344.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.48d46841aw4dAW&algo_pvid=3149eede-ef9a-46ea-9f20-bc9e808b9e9a&algo_exp_id=3149eede-ef9a-46ea-9f20-bc9e808b9e9a-2&pdp_ext_f=%7B%22sku_id%22%3A%2265604102493%22%7D">front and rear end plates only</a> $34.95 AUD shipped <br /></p><p>Mk3 <a href="https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32851290927.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.5bbd19a9IwhZrQ&algo_pvid=ea4b17fc-e3ca-4952-9f5a-6ece9b4eb2b0&algo_exp_id=ea4b17fc-e3ca-4952-9f5a-6ece9b4eb2b0-3&pdp_ext_f=%7B%22sku_id%22%3A%2265186867451%22%7D">cheapest end plates, frame and y carriage</a> $140.00 AUD shipped <br /></p><p>Mk3 <a href="https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003346525409.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.2a851614ckEooD&algo_pvid=6d7a1992-2088-4d04-9abe-ed1c9ca72434&algo_exp_id=6d7a1992-2088-4d04-9abe-ed1c9ca72434-8&pdp_ext_f=%7B%22sku_id%22%3A%2212000025333196410%22%7D">cheapest end plates, frame, y carraige, smooth rods and 3030 extrusion</a> $170 AUD shipped </p><p>Mk3 <a href="https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000437255928.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.2a851614ckEooD&algo_pvid=6d7a1992-2088-4d04-9abe-ed1c9ca72434&algo_exp_id=6d7a1992-2088-4d04-9abe-ed1c9ca72434-2&pdp_ext_f=%7B%22sku_id%22%3A%2210000001803350668%22%7D">nicest looking end plates, frame and y carriage, smooth rods and 3030 extrusion</a> $<span class="product-price-value">184.86</span> AUD shipped </p><p>Mk3 <a href="https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002589980024.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.80b165feo8Qdmu&algo_pvid=c293c5db-501b-4dc7-8654-decd5c4db22a&algo_exp_id=c293c5db-501b-4dc7-8654-decd5c4db22a-33&pdp_ext_f=%7B%22sku_id%22%3A%2212000021293104866%22%7D">cheapest y carriage with u clamps and lm8uu linear bearings</a> $38.00 AUD shipped </p><p>Mk3 <a href="https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32840768661.html?ug_edm_item_id=32840768661&edm_click_module=item_detail&tracelog=rowan&rowan_id1=aeug_edm_19479_1_en_US_2021-09-25&rowan_msg_id=7483biz_search_product:0:0_3372691$03ce9ea8d3584171abfb2bb5c4b91621&ck=in_edm_other">cheapest y carriage</a> $19.46 AUD shipped </p><p>Mk3 <a href="https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001869567506.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.24213f2b1hV5iR&algo_pvid=8c0c34a7-274a-420d-897a-0c4e4103af69&algo_exp_id=8c0c34a7-274a-420d-897a-0c4e4103af69-4&pdp_ext_f=%7B%22sku_id%22%3A%2212000017947802641%22%7D">cheapest mk 52 magnetic heated bed with spring steel sheet</a> $79.33 AUD shipped <br /></p>d3vohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10901517844828466221noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-21085190.post-65668332491812864682021-09-12T15:21:00.003+12:002021-09-12T15:21:48.706+12:00mk2 PINDA Aligning<p> I've making good progress in constructing my MK2 varient and I need to set the correct P.I.N.D.A. probe height.</p><p>Luckily, <a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/michaell0533">michaell0533</a> has <a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3366056">made a model for this.</a><br /></p>d3vohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10901517844828466221noreply@blogger.com0