I'm redoing my extruder to replace a part I broke a year ago during first assembly; I used a screw that was too long a broke a thing.
Here is the video to toms hardware video about assembling a V6 hot end or clone.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xr02pG58gaU
I've finished several unrelated things in the last 6 weeks which doesn't happen often so I think I should write them down!
God of War 4 game on PC; This is a great game. It is extremely well produced, directed, written and motion captured. The game is very cinematic. I enjoyed it a lot.
Weaponised novel by Neal Asher; This was a good read with a story with many enjoyable twists. Unlike most of Ashers writing, I didn't just hoover this book up at the fastest possible rate. I sort of wanted to enjoy it smaller bit sized chunks. I think that says good things about Asher's dynamicism as an author.
Knife Sharpener Tool v2.1; I've been slowly 3d printing this knife sharpener. I couldn't get one of the non-printed parts in quite the right size, so I had to learn how to modify an existing part from another author. Fun project. Project is here on thingiverse.
Playable Ur; I'm still hacking this on web page Royal Game of Ur implementation in KotlinJS. I need some clues about colour, some sound adjustments and also a colour theme. It has a very simple computer player, my first coded computer player that I can recall.
I'm having semi irrational thoughts about printing a keyboard.
Controller: this category got a lot easier recently it appears with the cheap and well support Raspberry Pi Pico. $6 AUD and it has like 40 general purpose IO pins so supports many rows & columns etc without getting tricksy.
A slightly better Raspberry Pi clone made in Europe for similar money is the Groundstudio Marble Pico which has more ram, some other technical features but most usefully it has USB C! A trouble to get it in Australia at the moment.
This video covers it and also mentions other USB C clones: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ma40w3_8dtg
Software: this software called Mechware can be configured and compiled for a Raspberry Pi Pico, and is written in C.
Switches can cost a fortune but there are cheap low profile switches on aliexpress that got an ok review in this youtube video.
I would follow various diode guides about how to solder.
There is a key cap model generator here on thingiverse, although I'm not sure if it will do what I want for low height keys for non-standard switches. I'm guessing I'd just use openscad.
There is a 3d printer build surface manufacturer that has a page which shows all the different build plate size for all contemporary 3d printers: build plate size
If you want to build some printer, you can use this as a cheat code on aliexpress to find a build plate/ heated bed in the right size 😀
Large printer with weird rails
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCummTDBPp9wecEyIerKeRFQ
Circular Polar 3d printer
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jKhPWo6QZwA
Delta, is a remake of an old Rep Rap design
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_Ry1FGsvIMA
Construction Crane style printer, labeld Inverted polar
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MYaYVmX7mUY
Fancy Rotary Delta, this thing is very impressive
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Sh7eLu4tUMA
Archie A home made Rotary Delta, a big series of these vids:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IG3Yfhys-N0
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4591379
Coinciding with the Russian invasion of Ukraine, a Russian web server started reporting that it was HTTP status 418, which means that it is saying "I'm a teapot".
So the 3d printer I have constructed has a minor, correctable design flaw. The part cooling fan cools the just laid plastic so that it sticks to the existing printed part.
In my Prusa Mk2 the part cooling fan only pushing air from the front to the back, a single direction. This means there is a wind shadow behind the extruder nozzle. 3 out of 4 ain't bad, but one direction of printing prints less well.
People years ahead of me have fixed this problem with improved fan shrouds that blow air from the left and right, avoiding any shadow and improving 1/4 of the print lines.
This part is probably the one I want to print, it has room for an insulating silicone sock that I have fitted.
This part probably doesn't fit, but is smaller and probably prettier.
This part doesn't solve the wind shadow problem but it tilts the fan for improved power, an improvement that was taken into the design of the Prusa Mk3.
My problem is that I need to print this part in ABS plastic. My new printer can get hot enough to do this, that isn't a problem. This kind of plastic won't melt/ warp/ drool being next to the hot print head. I can't use regular PLA or PETG here, they are easier to print but they won't work for very long, the part would fail.
ABS (Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene) should be printed without a fan running but my problem is that my fan is connected to a permanently on fan port at the moment, due to my ignorance.
I have one controllable fan port on my little motherboard, but I'm not sure how it is configured in the firmware. Could be my an extruder cooling fan, could be a ventilation fan, or maybe the one I want!! Time to test!!
I'm at home today after some skin surgery on Monday to remove a Basal Cell Carcinoma; a cliche skin problem in pale skinned European descendants due to sun damage in my distant past.
This floor lying lampshade seems fun to print.
This sanding block looks kind of boring and pointless, however consider that it is a digital model and so you can trivially scale the entire model up or down to make perfectly fitting sand blocks for any human. Small hand, big hands, child hands, print it to size and enjoy a well fitting tool.
This digital sundial that changes time every 10 minutes is cool, but a bit of a nightmare to print, may take 24 hours :/
I found out for my setup I can control the Z height in software.
See set value with M503
Set new Z-Probe Offset using M851 Z<newValue>, for example M851 Z-2.2
My printer seems to work better with M851 Z-0.47
I've promised a print of this to my nana.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1376105/files
